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There are few producers in the world - let alone Spain - doing what Comando G is doing. From the remote granite peaks of the Sierra de Gredos, they’ve taken Garnacha out of the co-op and into the conversation with the world’s most transparent, site-driven wines.
Daniel Gómez Jiménez-Landi and Fernando García aren’t chasing trends, they're rebuilding a region, restoring abandoned vineyards, and proving that Garnacha, when grown high and handled with care, can be as nuanced and ageworthy as Pinot or Nebbiolo.
These are wines of altitude and attitude - quietly revolutionary, unmistakably Gredos, and utterly thrilling in the glass.
Comando G’s new release from Navatalgordo takes Garnacha to the edge - literally and figuratively. This is the highest of their village wines, grown at 1,100 metres in the wild, quartz-laced hills of the Alto Alberche. It’s a cold, rugged spot, and the wine wears that altitude proudly. There's no fat or flash here - just tight lines, pure fruit, and a serious mineral edge that cuts through everything.
Fermented with whole bunches and left to do its thing in big old oak and concrete, it’s handled gently but built with intent. No fining, no filtration, and just a whisper of sulphur right at the end. It might be a 2022, but it doesn’t show the heat of the vintage - this one plays it cool, almost alpine, with a quiet kind of intensity that builds the longer it sits in the glass.
This isn’t Garnacha trying to be something else - it’s Garnacha showing what’s possible when grown in the right place and left alone.
96 points
"A floral and expressive village red from Navatalgordo with electric acidity, chalky tension, and serious structure. Fermented with full clusters and aged in concrete and oak, this wine shows remarkable freshness and lower alcohol (13%) despite the warm 2022 vintage. Barolo-like in its slow development and precision. 11,047 bottles produced."
- Luis Gutiérrez (The Wine Advocate)
Comando G’s new village wine from Villanueva de Ávila might just be their most complete yet. It’s a pure, old-vine Garnacha from a handful of high-altitude plots (La Cañada, Las Herguijuelas, El Robledillo), sitting around 1000 metres up in the Sierra de Gredos. These sites are a little different - soils have more silt mixed into the usual decomposed granite, and that extra finesse shows.
The 2022 vintage was tough going - hot, dry and unforgiving - but you wouldn’t know it from this wine. It’s calm, subtle, and seriously refined. Whole bunches, gentle maceration, wild ferments, ageing in large old oak and demijohn—no flash, no fuss, just detail and restraint. It’s not a big wine, but it’s long, savoury and full of quiet energy. No sulphur added during vinification, just a touch at bottling.
For those who think Garnacha is all heat and weight, this turns that idea on its head.
96 points
"Subtle and delicate but with energy and power, this village red from Villanueva de Ávila shows ethereal floral, herb, and nutmeg notes. Medium-bodied with fine silty tannins, a textured palate, and a long, tasty finish. Austere and elegant, with excellent aging potential. 2,798 bottles produced."
- Luis Gutiérrez (The Wine Advocate)
Comando G has built a cult following by doing something pretty radical - making Garnacha that drinks more like fine Burgundy than the dense, oaky Spanish reds of old. The Rozas is a snapshot of that mission in motion, pulled from five old-vine sites in the hills around Rozas de Puerto Real, 900 metres up in the Sierra de Gredos. This isn’t the Rozas 1er Cru you might remember - it’s been reworked into a broader village wine, but the fruit and the approach haven’t changed.
The 2022 vintage was tough - hot, dry, relentless - but the result is anything but heavy. They dialled back the maceration, backed off the extraction, and let the fruit do the talking. Whole bunches, wild ferments, big old oak - no new wood, no filtration, no polish. Just pure, bright, spicy Garnacha with real lift and a bit of grit.
This is elegant, energetic wine that doesn’t shout, but you’ll hear it loud and clear.
95 points
"The 2022 Rozas, formerly Rozas 1er Cru, is now a village wine made from five long-cultivated vineyards. Softer vinification in this warm vintage led to a fruitier profile and silty, Italian-like tannins. Juicy and jovial, with 14.5% alcohol and great character. 10,992 bottles produced."
- Luis Gutiérrez (The Wine Advocate)
Comando G was born from two mates chasing old-vine Garnacha in the wild hills west of Madrid - and they’ve ended up flipping Spain’s idea of what this grape can be. Think perfume over power, detail over density. La Bruja is their entry point, but it’s no afterthought. Sourced from 60-year-old vines grown on decomposed granite up in the Sierra de Gredos, this is a wine that balances rustic charm with real finesse.
The 2022 is juicy, bright and a bit looser in the collar than previous years - thanks to a hot, dry summer that delivered plenty of sun and a ripe, easy charm. It’s still unmistakably Gredos, though. Wild herbs, bright red fruit, mineral edge - fermented with whole bunches, aged in large old wood, and bottled unfiltered. Nothing flashy, just delicious, unforced Garnacha made with total care.
Whether you're already deep in the Gredos rabbit hole or just getting curious, this is a pretty compelling place to start.
94 points
"Juicy and aromatic Garnacha in the Comando G style with 14% alcohol, fine granite granularity, and a medium-bodied, fruit-driven palate. Expressive and approachable, with a sapid finish and more Morgon-like character. A regional wine in 2022 and 2023, shifting focus to Ávila."
- Luis Gutiérrez (The Wine Advocate)
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