2023 Varney Wines Limited Release Grenache

Highly Rated
Crafted from 70+-year-old bush vines across three iconic McLaren Vale sites, this is a vibrant yet complex Grenache from emerging star winemaker Alan Varney.

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Description

The 2023 Varney Wines Limited Release Grenache is a tremendous rendition of McLaren Vale’s old-vine Grenache heritage, from emerging star winemaker Alan Varney.  

This wine is crafted from 70+-year-old bush vines sourced from three distinct sites: Blewitt Springs, Seaview, and Whites Valley. Each vineyard contributes its unique character, from Blewitt Springs’ aromatic lift to Seaview’s vibrant acidity and Whites Valley’s mid-palate depth. The fruit undergoes cold soaking, partial whole bunch fermentation, and up to 26 days on skins before maturing for eight months in seasoned French oak.  

Expect a lively and textured Grenache with layers of cherry, pomegranate, and subtle earthy spice, underscored by fine natural tannins and a vibrant, balanced structure. The cool vintage lends the wine freshness and energy, while its seamless complexity reflects the skilled hand behind its creation.  

Equally at home with aromatic Asian dishes, charcuterie, or slow-braised lamb, this is a Grenache for now or for cellaring over the next decade.

95 points
"A thoroughly scrumptious Grenache from McLaren Vale. Techniques like whole bunch, wild ferments, and carbonic maceration create a wine with great energy and fruit vibrancy. Balanced and flavoursome fruit from 70+ year-old vines, with a nice dry savoury dusty character from Blewitt Springs."
- Ray Jordan (Winepilot)

95 points
"From three sites all over 70 years old: Blewitt Springs, Seaview, and Whites Valley. There’s a savoury connectedness of flavour and structure, delivering layers of cherry, cranberry, and rose with vibrancy from the cool year. Fine natural tannins drive flavours long. Very charming indeed."
- Marcus Ellis (Halliday Wine Companion)

94 points
"Carbonic accents of Turkish delight, red pastille, and lilacs. Impressive density in the mid-palate despite the cooler vintage. Firm tannic structure with briar, leather, and peppercorns. It has stuffing, drive, and verve."
- Ned Goodwin MW (James Suckling)

92 points
"Intense aromas of raspberry coulis and rose petals tempt from the outset. Vibrant and crunchy, with heady, plush fruit precision and great vitality. Fine chewy tannins corral the wine to the finish."
- Gabrielle Poy (The Real Review)

95 points
"Blueberries, boysenberries, raspberries, and pomegranate light up the stage. The energy from carbonic maceration adds vibrancy, while earthy spices, char, and cola deliver a moreish factor. Damn, it’s tasty! An excellent drink that seems to evaporate from the glass all too quickly."
- Steve Leszczynski (QWine Reviews)

95 points - "A thoroughly scrumptious Grenache from McLaren Vale. The techniques of some whole bunch, wild ferments, carbonic maceration and time on skins in open fermenters has been designed to bring a wine of great energy and fruit vibrancy to life. The vines are more than 70 years old and pump beautifully balanced and flavoursome fruit into the wine. Has a nice dry savoury dusty character that you often get from Blewitt Springs within this region." - Ray Jordan (Winepilot)

95 points - "From three sites all over 70 years old: Blewitt Springs, Seaview and Whites Valley. There’s a savoury connectedness of flavour and structure that provides a spicy, earthy edge to a buoyant but neatly measured fruitfulness, discreetly handled whole bunch delivering on both fronts. It’s the sign of a skilled hand, building layers and detail, nothing jostling for attention. Cherry compote, cranberry, rose and pomegranate molasses (not sweet toned, but concentrated), white pepper and baking spices. It has the vibrancy of the cool year, but there’s also depth and import, fine natural tannins driving the flavours long. It’s very charming indeed." - Marcus Ellis (Halliday Wine Companion)

95 points - "Best described as an excitement machine, this Limited Release Grenache from Varney Wines is a silky and curvaceous medium-bodied red wine with a luscious flow. From 70+ year bush vines sourced from three sites, some whole bunches and carbonic maceration were used. After 10-26 days on skins, it was pressed to French oak for eight months. Blueberries, boysenberries and raspberries light up the stage with licks of pomegranate sitting in the background. The energy and vibe from the carbonic certainly plays its hand. A touch of meatiness shoulders forward with touches of char and cola. Earthy spices build momentum and deliver a moreish factor. Damn, it's tasty! It's one of those wines that seems to evaporate from the glass all too quickly. Head down this road Grenache lovers - this is an excellent drink! Drink to eight years." - Steve Leszczynski (QWine Reviews)

95 points - Sam Kim (Wine Orbit)

94 points - "Carbonic accents of Turkish delight, red pastille and lilacs. Impressive density in the mid-palate given the challenging, cooler nature of the vintage. Briar, leather and peppercorns with a firm tannic structure. Ripe and impressive given the circumstances. It has stuffing, drive and verve. From 70-year-old vines from Blewitt Springs, Seaview and Whites Valley. Drink or hold. Screw cap." - Ned Goodwin MW (James Suckling)

93 points - "From bush vines of some 70-year-old age from across Blewitt Springs, Seaview and Whites Valley. Goes to used French oak.

This is a delight to drink and has some pizzazz. Sappy and somewhat sweet cherry, tart cranberry, rose hip tea, aniseed, a kind of alpine herb element, or mint, but gentle, elevating things, and a touch of violet floral in there too. It has energy, freshness, some tension and crispness. Tannins ripple gently and well, extending flavour long, a point of sweet-sour fruit and herbal elements linger." - Mike. Bennie (The Wine Front)

92 points - "Intense aromas of raspberry coulis and rose petals tempt from the outset. It's vibrant and crunchy, and the fruit precision is very attractive. It's a heady and plush grenache with great vitality and appeal. Fine chewy tannins corral the wine to the finish." - Gabrielle Poy (The Real Review)

THE VINEYARD
Three very distinguished vineyards complement one another in this blend. The Brini vineyard in Blewitt Springs contributes heightened fresh aromatics and a tilled earth character on the palate. The Romano vineyard in Seaview lends a vibrant acid backbone and fresh fruits of cherry and red berry and the Cooter vineyard in Whites Valley adds depth of fruit, mid-palate weight, and an ironstone ferrous note to the long and balanced finish. Vineyards are all 70+ years old bush vines on sand. A vinous trilogy of distinction.

WINEMAKING
Cold soaked, partial whole bunch,
10-26 days on skins in open fermenters, pressed to seasoned French oak for 8 month maturation prior to blending and bottling.

FOOD PAIRING
This vibrant wine pairs deliciously with bright robust flavours. Think aromatic Asian dishes, cured pork charcuterie, or braised lamb.

Price Bracket $41 to $50
Type Red
Body Medium Bodied
Variety Grenache
Country Australia
Region McLaren Vale
Australian State SA
Reviewed By Halliday Wine Companion
Wine Pilot
Wine Orbit
James Suckling
QWine Reviews
The Real Review
The Wine Front
Critic Score 95
94
93
92
Alcohol 14%
Size 750ml
Vintage 2023
Closure Screw Cap

Varney Wines

Varney Wines began with just a "tonne for fun" for Alan Varney to play around with over a decade ago.

He took his years of experience working at top South Australian wineries, including time spent at Orlando Wines, Longview Vineyard and over a decade as senior winemaker at d’Arenberg, and poured his skills into crafting a style of wine that he and his friends and family could enjoy.

The side gig became a full-time obsession, leading to Alan purchasing a dilapidated property at the Gateway of McLaren Vale to house a tasting room alongside his wife Kathrin’s restaurant, Victor’s Place. A sustainable modern winery was built and their first commercial release was unveiled. The wines have been taking off ever since culminating with Varney being named James Halliday's Best New Winery in 2021.

Winemaker Alan Varney - McLaren Vale, SA Varney Wines

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