When you talk about innovative Australian wine, Brendan and Laura Carter's Unico Zelo is a name that always surfaces. Their focus isn't just on crafting great wine — it's on reshaping the Australian wine landscape entirely. Their approach blends creativity with sustainability, and their philosophy is clear: make wine that speaks to Australia's unique conditions and culture. Brendan Carter, one-half of Unico Zelo (the self-proclaimed “lesser half”), sat down to talk about the vision driving their unique brand.
The Italian Connection: Why Fiano?
Fiano might seem like a peculiar choice for a hero variety in Australian wine. But according to Brendan, it's not just a trendy alternative; it's a solution to several problems plaguing the local industry. "Fiano is such a brilliant and beautiful solution to a number of problems we have in the Australian wine industry," Brendan explains. One of those problems is the overreliance on irrigation in regions like the Riverland, where water is becoming an increasingly expensive commodity. "We wanted to incentivise people to plant varieties that don’t rely so heavily on water, and Fiano does that naturally."
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This isn't just a sustainability tick-box exercise, either. Brendan believes that the future of Australian wine must better reflect its modern-day food culture. Fiano fits the bill because of its adaptability to Australia’s Mediterranean-style climate and its pairing potential with the lighter, more aromatic cuisine that has become more prevalent in Australian households. "Our food culture has shifted," he points out.
"We’ve gone from beef and lamb to poultry and fish, from potatoes and pastries to rice and vegetables. Our wines need to evolve, too, to suit those changes."
- Brendan Carter
Fiano is rich and complex, without needing oak to provide weight or texture. "It has that kind of waxiness, that creaminess, but it’s all fruit-derived," Brendan says. For Aussie palates accustomed to a bit of richness in their wines, Fiano offers familiarity but with a fresher, more vibrant profile than some of the traditional heavyweights like Shiraz. “No one under 40 is drinking big, extracted reds anymore,” he laughs.
Australian Identity and Global Relevance
While many in the Australian wine industry still look to Europe for inspiration, Unico Zelo is determined to carve out a distinctly Australian identity. Brendan passionately advocates for an Australian-centric approach to winemaking. "When you're selling wine anywhere, you need to be selling the taste of your place. I can't sell Barolo from Australia — it doesn’t exist."
This is where the future of Australian wine could lie. Brendan suggests that the true potential of Australian wine is in making wines that resonate with the country's food, lifestyle, and people, rather than trying to replicate European styles. “We don’t need to make our wines in the image of Italy or France. We can take inspiration from their climate-suitable varieties, but create something that speaks to Australia’s contemporary epicurean culture,” he argues. He argues the our food influences today are much more centred around South-East Asian/Arabic cuisines and we have the ability to make a new genre of wine that matches perfectly with those food styles.
"Wouldn’t that be awesome if... Australia’s great meaningful contribution to the world of wine is to actually create wines for those foods, which are actually the most consumed foods in the world!"
- Brendan Carter
A notable example is Nero d'Avola, which Brendan views as a red that could one day replace Shiraz as the defining variety of Australian reds. "Nero in Australia is different to Nero in Italy, and I'm proud of that," Brendan says. "It’s juicy, mid-weight, and low-tannin — perfect for the kind of food we eat in Australia, and more in line with what people want to drink today."
A Sustainable Future
The Carter’s work isn’t just about planting the right grape varieties — it’s also about rethinking the business side of wine. Unico Zelo has become a leader in crafting wines that are not only sustainable but also accessible. "Our price point has remained as low as we can keep it because we want people discovering wine for the first time to feel welcome," Brendan says. It's clear that every decision is made with the consumer in mind. From packaging to price, they’ve built their brand to appeal to younger drinkers who are new to wine and looking for something more exciting and modern.
Esoterico, their wildly popular orange wine, exemplifies this balance. Despite its esoteric blend of varieties like Zibibbo, Gewürztraminer, and Greco, it’s a wine that has resonated with consumers. "We don’t put the varieties on the label, because it’s not about that. It's about the experience of the wine,” Brendan explains.
“People like having fun. Wine doesn’t have to be this intellectual challenge. It can just be about enjoyment.”
- Brendan Carter
Looking Ahead: Unico Zelo’s Impact
Unico Zelo’s vision extends far beyond just selling bottles of wine. For Brendan and Laura, it's about pushing the boundaries of what Australian wine can be, and in doing so, making it relevant to both local and global audiences. Brendan talks passionately about the future of Australian wine being not just in traditional varieties, but in embracing those that align with modern Australia — its people, its food, and its culture. "Wouldn’t it be awesome if Australia became known for wines that were pinpoint perfect for the most consumed foods in the world? That’s where we see the potential."
With varieties like Fiano and Nero d'Avola taking centre stage and a commitment to making wine accessible, Unico Zelo is carving out a new path for Australian wine. One that isn’t bogged down by tradition but instead celebrates innovation, sustainability, and an authentic Aussie experience.
"We’re not trying to make wine for everyone. We’re making interesting, unique wine for people who want something more, something fun. That’s what Unico Zelo is all about."
- Brendan Carter
Unico Zelo is available at Different Drop – browse their range and discover what the future of Australian wine looks like today.