In a wine scene as dynamic as Australia's, few stories capture the essence of evolution quite like that of Jasper Button. As one-half of the sibling duo behind Commune of Buttons, Jasper has journeyed from a self-described winemaking novice to one of the most thoughtful, introspective figures in the Adelaide Hills. His wines, once experimental and playful, are now mature, refined, and brimming with a deep sense of place — a testament to his constant self-analysis and drive for improvement.
The Beginning: A Family Vineyard, Reimagined
The Button story is rooted in Basket Range, where Jasper and his sister Sophie returned after time abroad to help revive their family’s 30-year-old vineyard. Originally planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay by their mother, the farm had primarily sold its grapes to other producers. But when Jasper and Sophie took over, they saw an opportunity to reshape the farm’s future, shifting towards organic and biodynamic practices. Their early days in winemaking were influenced by the surrounding community, especially local legends like Anton von Klopper of Lucy Margaux, James Erskine of Jauma, and Taras Ochota of Ochota Barrels.
“We made a little bit of wine just for fun, a couple of barrels of Chardonnay... Anton and Taras were buying our fruit at the time. It all kind of snowballed from there.”
- Jasper Button
It was a time of exploration, of finding their feet in the natural wine movement. The early wines were immediate, juicy, and fruit-forward, making a splash in the nascent lo-fi wine scene of Basket Range. But Commune of Buttons was never meant to be just a trend; Jasper was already thinking ahead.
A Thoughtful Approach
Though Commune of Buttons' first releases were small and almost experimental, Jasper’s approach quickly grew more nuanced. His curiosity and desire to push the boundaries of what natural wine could be led him to a more considered, self-reflective style of winemaking.
“We spend so much time working in the vines, and that’s where it all starts for me. To make good wine, the vineyard has to be looked after in a particular way. The love you put in is the love you get back.”
- Jasper Button
For Jasper, this meant getting the basics right: healthy soils, well-timed harvests, and a respect for the fruit that could only come from hands-on farming.
He’s the first to admit that his wines have evolved. “When we started, we were really into whole bunch fermentation, inspired by winemakers from Burgundy and Beaujolais. But we found that didn’t always work for our soils. Over time, we scaled that back and now focus on long, cool fermentations with gentle extraction,” he says. The result is purity of flavour that’s unmistakable, with wines that feel more precise, less wild, but still full of life.
Pinot Noir, Redefined
Pinot Noir has always been at the heart of Commune of Buttons, and it’s where Jasper’s growth as a winemaker is perhaps most evident. The estate’s Pinot vines, planted on ancient clay and sandstone soils, produce small, intensely flavoured berries. In his early days, Jasper embraced the whole-bunch approach, seeking to mimic the structured, savoury Pinot Noirs of France. But with time, he realised that this method wasn’t unlocking the full potential of his vineyard.
“We’ve moved away from that now. For our site, it’s about finding the right balance between fruit and tannin, and the whole-bunch didn’t work for us. Now we focus on purity and trying to bottle the wine’s energy.”
- Jasper Button
The results are wines that leap out of the glass with freshness and perfume, showing a bright, lively fruit character with subtle earthiness. The 2023 Commune Pinot Noir, for example, showcases the vineyard’s unique ironstone-laden soils with a core of dark cherry, bramble, and a fine mineral edge. “I love that feeling of purity right after pressing. If I can capture that and get it into the bottle, I feel like I’ve done my job,” he adds.
Chardonnay with Complexity
While Pinot Noir was the vineyard’s initial calling card, Chardonnay has since taken on a life of its own at Commune of Buttons. With parcels sourced from their Basket Range vineyard as well as leased blocks in the cooler Piccadilly Valley, Jasper’s Chardonnays have developed a reputation for their balance of texture, complexity, and brightness.
“We’re lucky to have such diverse sites for Chardonnay... The amphitheatre-like shape of our vineyard creates these beautiful growing conditions where the vines stay cool in the mornings and warm up slowly during the day. It gives the wines this lovely natural acidity and ripeness that plays off each other perfectly.”
- Jasper Button
We think this is where Jasper's real talent lies. He's genuinely making some of the most honest, focused, deliciously expressive Chardonnays in the Hills.
A Constant Search for More
Despite all the accolades and growing reputation, Jasper remains his own toughest critic. “I’m always thinking about how we can improve, how we can do things better. I think that’s what keeps me going,” he reflects. It’s this endless curiosity and self-examination that has propelled Commune of Buttons from a niche natural wine label to one of the most respected producers in the Adelaide Hills.
Whether it’s through fine-tuning vineyard management, experimenting with fermentation techniques, or simply questioning the status quo, Jasper Button is a winemaker on a mission. His wines today are a reflection of not just a place, but a journey — one that’s still unfolding, year after year, with every bottle that leaves the farm.
As Jasper puts it, “We’re not chasing trends or trying to be the coolest. We just want to make wines that are true to who we are and where we come from. And I think that’s what people connect with.”