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Keppell Smith first laid eyes on what would become the Savaterre vineyard back in 1996, a granite-rich slope on Beechworth’s legendary “Golden Mile”. Since then, his Chardonnays have carved out a place among the most profound in the country - complex, long-lived, and completely world-class.
The 2023 release follows the brilliant 2022, and while it brings the same depth and power, this vintage shows even greater restraint and detail. Long, warm days and cool nights allowed for a slow, graceful ripening, and the result is a tightly coiled, age-worthy wine of precision and poise. “These are the years for finesse and precision,” says Keppell. “It’s a serious, cerebral wine of great focus.” There’s real intensity here, but it’s harnessed by structure, tension and clarity.
In the glass: straw yellow with silvery flecks. Aromatically, it’s a study in quiet confidence - lime blossom, white nectarine, beeswax and sandalwood, with flickers of hazelnut and pink grapefruit. The palate is all structure and line, with incredible drive, length, and a whisper of old-world charm. Decant if drinking young - this wine will continue to build and evolve over two decades.
One of Australia’s great Chardonnays, from one of the most detail-obsessed producers in the game.
98 points
"A great chardonnay of terrific refinement and formidable power."
- Huon Hooke (The Real Review)
97 points
"A double wow kind of chardonnay, such is the level of deep concentration and the purity of flavour and delivery."
- Jeni Port (Halliday Wine Companion)
96 points
"There’s some almond creaminess in the mix too. It’s finer and less flavour packed than some of the prior vintages, but gee I love its delicacy. Superb."
- Gary Walsh (The Wine Front)
Price Bracket | $101 and Above |
Type | White |
Body | Full Bodied |
Variety | Chardonnay |
Country | Australia |
Region | Beechworth |
Australian State | VIC |
Feature |
High Score |
Reviewed By |
The Wine Front Halliday Wine Companion The Real Review |
Critic Score |
98 97 96 |
Size | 750ml |
Vintage | 2023 |
Closure | Screw Cap |
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