Brad Hickey, the charismatic winemaker behind Brash Higgins, didn’t come to McLaren Vale to follow the well-trodden path of tradition. A former sommelier from New York, Hickey’s journey to Australia was fuelled by a sense of adventure and a desire to explore what wine could be outside the confines of convention. Alongside his business partner, Nicole Thorpe, Brad has built Brash Higgins into a brand synonymous with risk-taking, innovation, and the kind of winemaking that stretches the imagination.
His wines, like his story, reflect a deep sense of curiosity and experimentation, and it’s no stretch to say that the diversity of the modern Australian wine scene we enjoy today is owed much to free spirits like him.
A Journey From New York to McLaren Vale
In 2007, Brad made the dramatic leap from the fast-paced world of New York’s fine dining scene to the sun-drenched vineyards of South Australia. What began as a short harvest stint with renowned winemaker Chris Ringland soon turned into something much bigger. Brad traded the wine lists of Manhattan for the rugged, sun-soaked vines of McLaren Vale—and found himself at the forefront of a new wave of Australian winemaking.
“I came over from New York and quit my job essentially without any real sort of plan B.”
But Brash Higgins is more than just Brad’s venture. His former wife, Nicole Thorpe, who planted the iconic Omensetter Vineyard in 1997, remains his business partner. Together, they’ve cultivated not just grapes, but a philosophy of innovation and collaboration. Omensetter was Nicole’s brainchild, and to this day, it forms the heart of the Brash Higgins range.
“The vineyard was just called the home block, which was kind of boring. I was like, we need some magic here… this is our turf.”
ZBO Zibbibo: Turning the Familiar on Its Head
One of the wines that best captures Brad’s daring approach is the ZBO Zibbibo. Traditionally known as Muscat of Alexandria, Zibbibo is typically associated with sweet, easy-drinking wines or bulk production. But Brad saw potential where others might have overlooked it. The ZBO is a dry, skin-contact white that’s fermented in beeswax-lined amphoras, a technique Brad borrowed from ancient winemaking traditions.
The result is a wine that defies expectation—floral, aromatic, yet dry and savoury, with a texture that grips the palate. ZBO evolves with every sip, offering layers of elderflower, peach, and a salty, almost cider-like finish.
“It's a wine that smells sweet but is super dry... It's like a little Alice in Wonderland,” he adds.
Brad’s use of amphoras and his commitment to organic farming are key to his winemaking philosophy. His wines are not about conforming to a style but about letting the land, the grapes, and the ancient techniques speak for themselves. ZBO Zibbibo is a perfect metaphor for Brad’s approach to winemaking: unconventional, challenging, and completely unique.
NDV Nero d’Avola: A Sicilian Twist in McLaren Vale
While amphora-aged wines may seem almost commonplace among certain sects of Australia’s wine avant-garde, Brad was a pioneer. His NDV Nero d’Avola, first released in 2009, was something of a game-changer for the McLaren Vale region. Nero d’Avola, a Sicilian grape, was relatively unheard of in McLaren Vale at the time, but Brad saw its potential to thrive in the region’s Mediterranean-like climate.
“This sun-loving Sicilian grape was perfect for McLaren Vale,” Brad recalls. "I wanted to craft something that spoke both Italian and Australian.”
The 2022 vintage of NDV marks the 12th release of this standout wine. Fermented wild and aged in amphoras for six months, NDV is a wine that straddles two worlds. “It’s not your average Nero,” Brad explains. “We age it on the skins and seeds in amphoras, which gives it these wild, spicy, complex layers.”
Crimson-hued, NDV bursts with aromas of black cherry, mezcal, tomato leaf, and Indian spices, all with a citrusy kick of orange peel. The palate is a ride of pomegranate, dark raspberry, and Negroni-esque bitterness, balanced by fine tannins and bright acidity.
“Back then, no one was talking about amphoras or skin contact. Now it’s almost run-of-the-mill in some circles, but we were doing this from the start.” says Brad
What’s particularly striking about NDV is its ability to blend Sicilian tradition with Australian innovation. Brad was one of the first to champion Nero d’Avola in McLaren Vale, and today, the variety’s success across the country owes a debt to his early work.
Bloom: Chardonnay, Reimagined
If ZBO is wild and NDV is bold, Brad’s Bloom Chardonnay is the quiet, contemplative side of his winemaking. Named after the ‘flor’ that forms on the surface of the wine during extended ageing, Bloom is a rare release, appearing only in exceptional years and in limited quantities. The wine, which ages for several years in barrel under a veil of yeast, is a nod to the sous voile style of Jura, but with a distinctly Australian twist.
With Bloom, typical McLaren Vale citrus and orchard fruit notes are layered with curry leaf, grilled nuts, smoke, and salt. It’s a wine that defies easy categorisation, but if you love the weird and wonderful, it's absolutely worth seeking out.
“These wines aren’t for everyone,” Brad admits. “They come at you with knees and elbows, but they have something to say.”
The complexity of Bloom mirrors Brad’s approach to winemaking as a whole. It’s about more than just making something delicious—it’s about creating wines that spark conversation, wines that surprise and intrigue. “You don’t make a wine like Bloom to be a crowd-pleaser,” he says. “You make it because it has something to say.”
At the heart of Brash Higgins is a commitment to creativity and a refusal to follow the herd. Brad Hickey and Nicole Thorpe have crafted a brand that’s not just about wine, but about storytelling, experimentation, and the joy of discovery. While amphora-aged wines and obscure varietals may be more common now, it was Brad’s pioneering spirit that helped pave the way for much of the diversity we see in Australia’s wine landscape today.
“We’ve never been interested in doing the same thing as everyone else,” Brad says. “The whole point is to keep exploring, to push boundaries and try something new. That’s where the magic is.”
In a world where so much is about tradition and consistency, Brash Higgins stands as a reminder that some of the most exciting wines come from those willing to take risks. For the adventurous drinker, Brad’s wines—whether it’s the wild ZBO Zibbibo, the bright and delicious NDV Nero d’Avola, or the rare and contemplative Bloom—are an invitation to experience wine in an entirely new way.