2024 Kenny Wine Polish Hill River Riesling

95 pts
Andrew Kenny’s Clare project has always circled back to Riesling, and this old-vine Polish Hill River bottling shows exactly why the style has become the backbone of his label.

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Description

Andrew Kenny has had Riesling in his sights since the very beginning. When he launched Kenny Wine in 2021, alongside an Adelaide Hills Pinot, one of the first bottles out the door was a Polish Hill River Riesling. It’s a subregion of the Clare he keeps coming back to – high, slatey soils planted to Riesling since the 1970s, and a place he reckons consistently delivers the clarity and drive he’s chasing.

The 2024 release comes off vines planted in 1979, sitting at 450m. Fruit was picked cold, pressed straight to free run, and fermented with neutral yeast on lees. No fining, just a light filter. In line with Andrew’s whole approach, the winemaking is stripped back so the vineyard can do the talking.

The wine is sharp and clean. Lime, green apple and floral lift are backed by a crunchy line of acidity and a little savoury edge. There’s plenty of energy here, making it easy to drink young, but the bones are there for years in the cellar if you’ve got the patience.

Mike Bennie

Mike Bennie

Halliday Wine Companion 95 Points

A pure, refreshing, crystalline white of great energy, zesty fruit character, light herbal detail and a touch of savouriness underlying. Expect lime in tonic water, lavender oil, talc-like elements in the minerality department, a brine and sea spray note, all bound in a lightweight but concentrated flavour frame. Delicious, delicate and with high drinkability. A class act.

Erin Larkin

Erin Larkin

The Wine Advocate 93 Points

The 2024 Polish Hill River Riesling is extraordinarily pretty on the nose: pressed flowers, green apple, lemon pith and brine. In the mouth, the wine is tightly coiled and delicate and speaks of crushed shells, talc, icing sugar, seal salt and sweet fleshy lime. It is a lovely, delicate wine. The vines were planted in 1979 (Geisenheim 198 clone) at 450 meters in elevation, on red/brown clay and loam over limestone. 11.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

As the name suggests this is sourced from Polish Hill River; a block planted in 1979 to Geisenheim sitting at 450m altitude. Free run juice only from chilled fruit fermented with neutral yeast on ‘fluffy lees’, unfined but lightly filtered before bottling. Green apple, brown lime, florals with a crunchy palate but well balanced acidity allowing it to drink beautifully now.

Price Bracket $31 to $40
Type White
Body Light Bodied
Variety Riesling
Country Australia
Region Clare Valley
Australian State SA
Reviewed By Halliday Wine Companion
The Wine Advocate
Critic Score 95
Alcohol 11.5%
Size 750ml
Vintage 2024
Closure Screw Cap

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