2022 Mac Forbes Spear Gully Vineyard Chardonnay

95 pts
From a high, volcanic-soil site in Hoddles Creek, this shows the more savoury, tightly wound side of Mac Forbes’ Chardonnay.

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Description

Spear Gully is one of the most distinctive sites in Mac Forbes’ line-up. Perched at 270m in Hoddles Creek, it’s his highest vineyard in the Upper Yarra and the only one rooted in volcanic red soils. Planted in 1997 and sheltered by native bush, the block consistently delivers Chardonnay that feels a little different – more savoury, more structural – compared with the other single-vineyard wines.

The 2022 season kept everyone on their toes, with a wet winter and spring bringing low yields but healthy canopies. Careful timing at harvest was critical, and the fruit came in with a mix of concentration and bright natural acidity. In the cellar the handling was as pared-back as ever: wild ferment, old oak, no fining, no fuss.

The wine has drive and edge, with citrus, green apple and grapefruit in the foreground, subtle nutty tones and a hint of saline through the finish. It’s not a showy Chardonnay – instead it’s lean, mineral and tightly bound, built for slow unfolding in the glass or with a few years in the cellar.

Mike Bennie

Mike Bennie

The Wine Front

A skeletal and refreshing style but seems to eke out enough textural nuance, enough salted cashew and ginger, enough hazelnut in the tart lime and bitter, heritage apple kind of feel that feels the mainstay. It’s ultra pure, so energetic, has dashes of fino sherry, almost, in the mix. It’s beautiful and very refreshing drinking.

Philip Rich

Philip Rich

Halliday Wine Companion 95 Points

From a 0.8ha vineyard planted on volcanic loam in '97, matured in seasoned barriques. A bright gold with green tinges. Aromas of marzipan, grilled nuts and oyster shells. These single-vineyard wines are less primary fruited than the village wines. Less fruit, more structure. Saline and long. A classic Mac Forbes early picked, tightly wound and thought-provoking wine.

Vineyard
The Spear Gully vineyard in Hoddles Creek is the highest site in the Upper Yarra at 270m, and the only one on volcanic red soils. These soils provide a striking contrast to other vineyards, delivering both focus and clarity while also offering an open structure and generous fruit weight. Planted in a slight arc and protected by indigenous trees on three sides, this unique vineyard produces fruit of distinction.

Tasting Notes
Aromas of green apple skin and pear drop rise from the glass, with honeysuckle and subtle nutty undertones. The palate is tightly coiled through the core with pleasing phenolics, while flavours of fresh grapefruit rind, makrut lime, and sherbet bring vibrancy. Balanced acidity leads to a well-composed, elegant finish.
Recommendation: Decant prior to serving at 10–12°C.

Vintage
A wet winter followed by a wet spring created challenging flowering conditions and reduced yields. However, big, healthy canopies thrived, particularly in dry-grown vineyards. Careful timing at harvest ensured excellent fruit quality and density of flavour in the resulting wines.

Wine Analysis

Alc/Vol: 11%

Acidity: 8.2 g/L

pH: 3.23

Vineyard Details

Rootstock: Own roots

Clone: I10V1

Planted: 1997

Density: 2.1m x 1.2m

Aspect: North

Soils: Deep red friable volcanic

Elevation: 270m

Winemaking

Yeast: Wild

Fermentation: Small old oak

Maturation: 9 months in small oak

Fining: None

Filtration: Sterile

Bottles Produced: 588

Price Bracket $51 to $100
Type White
Body Medium Bodied
Variety Chardonnay
Country Australia
Region Yarra Valley
Australian State VIC
Reviewed By Halliday Wine Companion
The Wine Front
Critic Score 95
Alcohol 11%
Size 750ml
Vintage 2022
Closure Cork

Mac Forbes

If you love premium and artisanal Australian wine, Mac Forbes is a name you need to know. He’s not only one of the country’s most talented winemakers, but he’s one of the most influential spokesmen for promoting the concept of Australian ‘terroir’, believing that wine should represent a time and a place.

Mac specialises in single vineyard Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah and Cabernet from the Yarra Valley. His wines are delicate and finely etched, characterised by subtlety and grace.

His Pinot Noirs are fine-boned, the Chardonnays are adored by lovers of fruit purity rather than winemaking artifice, and his array of off-dry Rieslings from the Strathbogie Ranges are among the country's most interesting. Additionally, his ever-expanding range of experimental wines is a treasure trove for the curious drinker.

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